Clinton. Bill Clinton.
President. Charmer. Global negotiator. And potentially, America’s first First Gentleman.
Clinton understood the power of simplicity. In 1992, his campaign strategist James Carville scrawled four blunt words onto a sign that would shape the election: It’s the economy, stupid. That phrase helped Clinton connect with voters, cut through the noise, and walk into the White House.
In men’s style, there’s a truth just as simple—and just as effective:
It’s your shoes, stupid.
This isn’t about fashion for fashion’s sake. It’s about how you show up in the world. Your shoes speak before you do. They telegraph confidence, taste, discipline. They separate the intentional from the indifferent.
Ask anyone who knows. The first thing people notice about a man? His shoes. Always has been. Always will be.
But that doesn’t mean you need a closet full of options. Just the right ones, well made and well maintained.
Here’s how to build a winning foundation:
1. THE LOAFER
The most versatile shoe in a man’s arsenal. No laces. No nonsense. Slip them on and go.
You need two: one black, one brown.
- Black loafers are your quiet powerhouse. They can anchor a tuxedo in a pinch or elevate dark denim for a night out. Sleek, polished, and refined.
- Brown loafers, ideally in a deep tone that can develop patina, are more relaxed. Perfect for summer suiting, business-casual settings, or weekends with tailored ease.
Avoid tassels. Skip the horsebit. Both skew ornamental. Stick with clean lines. Understated elegance never shouts.
2. THE LACE-UP
Lace-ups are the backbone of traditional men’s dress.
The Oxford, in all its variations—cap toe, wingtip, brogue—is still the gold standard.
- The cap-toe has had a hipster moment, but don’t let that stop you. It remains a timeless staple.
- The brogue or wingtip leans more British, more buttoned-up.
- The plain Oxford? Clean, sober, unshakable.
Choose black or brown, depending on your wardrobe. One pair of each wouldn’t hurt.
3. THE BOOT
Weather doesn’t care about your calendar. Every man needs a dress boot for when conditions turn cold, wet, or unpredictable.
- The black Chelsea boot is sleek and city-ready. No laces, no problem.
- The brown lace-up boot, essentially a high-ankle Oxford, offers rugged elegance. Pair it with denim or dress trousers.
Fun fact: the modern Oxford is simply a cut-down version of this classic ankle boot.
Own these three categories—loafers, lace-ups, and boots—and you’re covered. Sartorially. Socially. Professionally.
Because good shoes don’t just complete an outfit.
They build a reputation.
A Few Rules to Live By:
- Favor leather soles. They age well, breathe better, and can be resoled—making your investment last for years.
- Use wooden shoe trees. They absorb moisture and help shoes retain their shape between wears.
- Get regular shines. It’s not just vanity—it’s pride. Bonus: airport shoeshine stands (especially in Charlotte) are highly underrated.
This list skips the flash—monk straps, Belgian slippers, sneaker hybrids. We’ll get to those in a future column. But for now, build the base. Build it well.
And if you're ready to upgrade your footwear from foundational to exceptional, I invite you to take the next step.
As Creative Director of Vogel, America’s heritage custom shoemaker since 1879, I’ve worked to revive the art of American-made luxury—crafted, not churned. This fall, we’ll be hosting trunk shows in CMMP showrooms in Philadelphia, Atlanta, D.C., and Pittsburgh to preview our new collection.
Want early access? Prefer a one-on-one fitting?
Contact me directly at schroeder@vogelnyc.com.
Let’s make sure your shoes say exactly what they should.